Monday, June 28, 2010

A Ramen Round-up

Balmy. It's my new favorite word and, lately, I have had ample opportunity to use it. The weather here has turned hot, sweaty, sticky and strange. I'm either pairing tank tops with rain boots or hunkering down inside my air conditioned apartment as the warm, tropical rain loudly crashes down outside my window.

With the heat came a chilling realization: ramen season is over. Sure, technically, I can still pop into a noodle shop and get my slurp on, but I'd prefer not to spend my lunch break sweating into a hot bowl of soup. This is truly heartbreaking as I despise hot, humid weather as much as I love good ramen.

So, I'd like to do a little tribute to my dear friend ramen and share with you a collection of top notch bowls I've enjoyed in various cities around Japan. I'll miss you over these next couple of balmy months, my porky salty friend. Have a great summer! Stay Sweet! KIT!!
Butter + Ramen
Last weekend, as the temperature began to rise, I panicked and insisted on squeezing in one last round of ramen. I was visiting my BFIJ in Fukui so we stopped into her favorite local shop. It didn't look particularly exciting, but then I saw it. The ramen I have been wanting to try. The Shio Butter Ramen. Butter is a common ramen accoutrement in the Hokkaido region, the most northern island in Japan, where all the cows live and moo and donate their milk to make the particularly flavorful butter. The bowl arrived, as promised, with a fat nug of butter bobbing atop the salt broth. Chopped shiso leaves were another added bonus.  I swirled the butter around the bowl until it melted, immediately adding an oily sheen to the soup and even more calories to my (poor poor) happily overfed body. Salt is not my favorite ramen flavor, but the butter took the edge off, and the broth was smooth and unctuous. 

The Old Standby AKA My Very Very Favoritest Ramen in Kanazawa 

Ippudo is where I ate my very first meal in Kanazawa and it remains to be one of my favorite restaurants in the city. Not only is their Kyushu-style tonkotsu ramen consistently amazing, but they provide two of my favorite things: lots of condiments and free side dishes. Hurrah! After your bowl arrives, with it's rich, cloudy-white, pork broth and slippery noodles (you can choose to have them cooked hard or soft), grind some sesame seeds on top and use the garlic press to add a freshly crushed clove or two. Dig into the wooden bowls full of all-you-can-eat spicy chopped greens and bean sprouts coated in chili oil. Always pay the extra 100yen to add a perfectly cooked egg. After carefully biting through the hard cooked white, you'll be rewarded with a gooey, Hawaiian sunset orange, yolk. Sip your complimentary, bottomless iced tea and listen to the jazz playing in the simple but stylish dining room. When you finally stumble out the door, woozy and comatose from the decadent combination of pork, noodles and egg, the entire staff will shout after you. I don't know what they're saying, but I imagine it's something like "Dang! That shit was the joint, huh? Good luck staying awake at your desk, sucker!"  Some Bad News: I was shocked and disappointed to discover that Ippudo is a chain, with 34 shops in Japan. Some Good News: There's now an Ippudo in New York City, so I can get my fix stateside. 

Kyushu: The Ramen Mecca

Japanese people love waiting in line for food. A long line means it must be good, and these people will consistently queue up for hours for what they hope is the perfect plate of gyoza or freshest slices of sashimi. It is rumored that some will hop in any old line, not even knowing what they are waiting for, but assuming it must be life alteringly delicious. I am not so keen on the lines, but line up I did in Kagoshima. What else could I do? There I was in the motherland. The birthplace of my beloved Kyushu tonkotsu ramen. I was finally gonna eat one of my favorite foods on its home turf. I was like a Jew in Jerusalem, but with way more pork. Of course I would wait in line. And it was totally worth it. This was the absolute best bowl of my life. The pork nearly melted on my tongue, the noodles were chewy and ropey and (bonus round!) there was a handful of silky skinned, pork filled, wontons. A cold glass of lunchtime beer cut right through that rich, porcine broth.

So, there ya have it. Ramen season is officially over (maybe, probably, most likely). But not all is lost: cold soba season has just begun!


  1. the ippudo in NYC is super fancy and the ramen is so fucking delicious it makes me want to take off my panties and throw them at the chef like he was Tom Jones or something. i compare ALL bowls of ramen to the Miso ramen with Berkshire pork belly in NYC. im wet right now just thinking about it. their chicken karage is out of this world too.

    damn i hate you right now rachel.

  2. Holy Shit! Let's all go to NYC and throw our panties at the chef after some ramen! I love pork belly anything.

    I just had some in Berkeley but it made me miss the ramen at Ippudo. It was not nearly as porky delicious as in Japan.

  3. I know the passing of ramen season is a highly disappointing. I remember sweating over my own last bowl of miso ramen in late spring as I came to the realization that I simply can not risk eating this throughout the summer without suffering heat stroke or dehydration.

    Never fear though as you said there is a number of tasty cold noodle dishes to take ramen's place.

    1. There is zaru soba and udon. With fresh squeezed suidachi, raw quail egg and shichimi powder is very pleasing.

    2. Wanko soba -all the zaru soba you can eat at one go.

    3. Hiyashi chuka- cold ramen noodles with fresh veggies and sometimes roasted meat on top.

    ***My Favorite***

    4. Nagashi Somen. I love eating food I have to chance first. I don't know why it is just fun. With a bite of grilled fish on the side or sashimi. Nagashi Somen is the perfect meal to beat that むしあつい weather.

  4. I'm picking out my pork loving panties as I type, laydeez.

    Oh man, I love me some good karaage... they don't serve it at my Ippudo. BUT I do have a little stack of 10 gyoza for 100yen ($1.15) coupons burning a hole in my wallet.

    Rose, are you already back in Japan?

  5. Absence makes the ramen heart grow fonder.